Volume 3,Issue 2
基于皮肤模型评价VC乙基醚与乙酰酪氨酸的协同美白效应及其对原型VC的优势
通维生素C（Vitamin C，抗坏血酸）虽具有卓越的美白与抗氧化功效，但其原型在水溶液中极不稳定，限制了应用。为此，本研究探讨了由2% 维生素C乙基醚（3-O-乙基抗坏血酸，VC乙基醚，一种高稳定、高透皮的VC衍生物）与1%乙酰酪氨酸构成的复配体系。研究发现，乙酰酪氨酸能有效缓冲VC乙基醚水溶液在高温（45℃）加速试验中出现的pH下降现象。基于MelaKutis® 3D黑素皮肤模型的功效评价表明，该复配体系在提升模型亮度（L*值）和抑制黑素生成方面的效果，均显著优于3%及5%的原型VC水溶液。本研究为开发兼具高稳定性与高效能的美白护肤品提供了新的配方策略与实验依据。
[1]Telang P. S. Vitamin C in dermatology[J]. Indian Dermatol Online,2013, 4(2):143-6.
[2]Gęgotek Agnieszka, Skrzydlewska Elżbieta. Antioxidative and Anti-Inflammatory Activity of Ascorbic Acid[J]. Antioxidants, 2022: 1993.
[3]Caritá A. C., Fonseca-Santos B., Shultz J. D., et al. Vitamin C:One compound, several uses. Advances for delivery, efficiency andstability[J]. Nanomedicine, 2020: 24102117.
[4]Liao W. C., Huang Y. T., Lu L. P., et al. Antioxidant Ability andStability Studies of 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, a Cosmetic TyrosinaseInhibitor[J]. J Cosmet Sci, 2018, 69(4):233-243.
[5]Oormila Sasidharan, Anjali Gholap and Rachna Rastogi. A Reviewof Clinical Efficacy of Topical Vitamin C and Its Derivatives[J].Pharmaceutical Science and Technology, 2023, 7(2):20-26.
[6]Iliopoulos F., Sil B. C., Moore D. J., et al. 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid:Characterisation and investigation of single solvent systems for deliveryto the skin[J]. Int J Pharm X, 2019: 1100025.
[7]Liston Lord S., Rivas Precious L., Sakdiset Pajaree, et al. ChemicalPermeation Enhancers for Topically-Applied Vitamin C and ItsDerivatives: A Systematic Review[J]. Cosmetics, 2022: 85.
[8]Enescu C. D., Bedford L. M., Potts G., et al. A review of topicalvitamin C derivatives and their efficacy[J]. J Cosmet Dermatol, 2022,21(6):2349-2359.
[9]Gao Wei, Tang Weikun, Jin Yuchao, et al. Weak interaction-drivenequilibrium solubility of N-acetyl-L-tyrosine in thirteen mono-solvents:Molecular simulation, model correlation, and comparative analysis withstructurally similar substances[J]. Journal of Molecular Liquids, 2025:437128422.
[10]Kasai S., Sugimoto K., Miura R., et al. 8-Fluoro-8-demethylriboflavinas a potential active-site-directed reagent for flavoprotein. Reaction withsome amino acids[J]. J Biochem, 1983, 93(2):397-402.
[11]Maia A. M., Baby A. R., Yasaka W. J., et al. Validation of HPLCstability-indicating method for Vitamin C in semisolid pharmaceutical/cosmetic preparations with glutathione and sodium metabisulfite, asantioxidants[J]. Talanta, 2007, 71(2):639-43.
[12]Yang X., Peng F., Huang J., et al. Particulate matter 2.5 inducedhyperpigmentation in reconstructed human epidermis model(MelaKutis®)[J]. CHINESE MEDICAL JOURNAL, 2022, 135 (4): 502.
[13]Cui X., Mi T., Zhang H., et al. Glutathione amino acid precursorsprotect skin from UVB-induced damage and improve skin tone[J]. J EurAcad Dermatol Venereol, 2024, 38: 312-20.
[14]何林燕, 李想, 钱绍祥, 等. 3D皮肤模型法评估库拉索芦荟花的美白功效研究[J]. 香料香精化妆品, 2021(4):4.